Archive | August, 2010

Talk Kriol

If you want to be understood by the locals you have to learn to talk like the locals. The following is a brief lesson on how to mash up your English to speak passable Creole. Rama Cay creole is slightly different with hard-rolled Rs and a downward draw at the end of some sentences. We, […]

Small cog in a big machine

Gun violence isn´t very common in Bluefields. That´s why everyone was shocked when an assassin gunned down someone in broad daylight at the municipal wharf last week. There was an organization that had a team stuck in Greytown with a broken panga motor last week. The guy in Greytown called the organization in Bluefields to […]

Souvenir from Bluefields

The injury didn’t hurt like I thought it would. The pain came later when I was getting it stitched up in the Bluefields public hospital. “How did this happen?” the doctor asked me in Spanish as he began jabbing my palm with a syringe, each stick hurting less than the one before. “Estuve jugando en […]

You gotta love the frescos

A little lemon, lots of water and lots of sugar is the recipe for taking the edge off a hot summer’s day. Here, summer never ends and the locals have perfected the art of making frescos naturales. They are basically lemonade’s equivalent but made with whatever they find in the market, with flavors such as: […]

Miss Nicaragua

The nation has spoken. The Atlantic coast has the prettiest girls in Nicaragua. This month Miss Nicaragua, Scharlette Allen from Bluefields, competes in Las Vegas for the title of Miss Universe. UPDATE: Our Scharlette Allen lost to Miss Mexico. In fact, she didn’t even make it to the finals. I think she placed 92nd out […]

Nasal affair

There is much to love about life on the Nicaraguan coast. One of them is that it is completely normal to pick your nose. You can be interviewing job applicants and any of them could dig deep while explaining why they should be hired and you just couldn’t fault them because it is normal. Your […]

Jerry’s Story

“Der was 875 hole en da panga from dem shootin at we.” Jerry had been hired by a small group to carry them up Mahogany Creek. The year was ’84 or ’85 and he was already well into his thirties. The Nicaraguan civil war had reached a gruesome high point and it seemed like there […]

Last-minute rondon takes all day to make

Damaris is a big-cheeked creole woman with a healthy appetite who we hired to cook up a 15-person rondon. We asked her about it in the morning. “Shoore! Dat ees no prablem. When you wahn I cook it? Tomaarow?” “Well,” I replied, “we were thinking to have it for dinner tonight, maybe around…sevenish?” She shot […]